Ephesus Part 2: The Library's Secret, the Bath and Latrine Culture, and the Grand Theater

Don’t worry, this is not going to be as heavy as the Ephesus Part 1 post! Hehe. In fact, I will share with you some insider stories that I learned from our good-humoured tour guide, Nec. He was a very cool character of a gentle-old-man.

Below are some of the noticeable and popular parts of the Ephesus Ruins that you should not miss when you visit this place. Many of them are hard to miss anyway, but not the insider stories, unless you have someone like Nec as a guide.

The holes on Curetes Street

The Curetes Street is the most dramatic street in the Ephesus Archaeological Ruins. The street starts from the Hercules Gate sloping down to the Celsus Library. This street used to have many shops, galleries and what have you during the ancient times. Berry and I noticed that the road has many holes, like everywhere. We wondered if these holes were already present during the time. So we asked Nec for confirmation.

Nec lighted up, his eyes gleaming with excitement that we are interested in some history lesson. ‘Good eyes girls! These holes are there on purpose so that the residents do not slip when it rains as they walk down the street.’ Oh! Then Nec reminded us that the street slopes down, so that is one of the reasons why, for safety.

So this is the Curetes Street and that is the goddess of travel and the blog world, haha.

The Celsus Library and its Secret

The image of the Celsus Library graces all promotional materials and exposure of Ephesus. Many probably have seen the ancient building ruin somewhere. On a magazine, brochure and online. It’s one of those beautiful ruins that you just cannot stop admiring. The Celsus Library reminds me of The Treasury of Petra in Jordan. Have you been there? Have a look here: Incredible Petra Series: The Treasury (and the camels and their Bedouin owners)

During the ancient times, as you might have already known, they do not have books, nor computers, nor iPads and eReaders =) hehe. They have scrolls made from papyrus that they store inside cupboards surrounded with thick walls that helps protect them from humidity. The Celsus Library is said to have stored 15,000 scrolls. I wonder what kind of library system they use and if they have ladders to go up to these cupboards?

Anyway, the library has a secret. Hmmm. It is not a surprising secret really, after all humans are humans, and humans are animals, the highest form of animal that is, and when animals have their cravings, they will do anything in their power to get it. I hope you get the hint behind this analogy, hehe.

Nec told us that wealthy, prominent and learned gentlemen come here all the time at the library. But, are they actually going to spend the whole afternoon reading one papyrus scroll after another? Hmmn, now you tell me! *wink* Haha! Men are men, and you know, they are humans, and are therefore animals. In those early days, morality is not a prized convention, it only came to being after the rise of the Church.

Nec, now elated that we are interested in the history of Ephesus, motioned Berry and moi to follow him and showed us an arched gateway ruin. He said that there are tunnels that run underneath from this arched corner, passing through and under the main street and exiting to the brothels and baths on the other side of the road.

Then Nec added his eyes twinkling, ‘So when their wives asks—Darling, where have you been? They all have a valid excuse—Oh honey, I was at the library, you know?’ Hehe! So clever these men! Not.

There are 4 statues in the niches of the facade of the library. The statues symbolize wisdom (Sophia), knowledge (Episteme), intelligence (Ennoia) and valor (Arete), all 4 virtues of the Celsus Library. These are copies and the originals are in the Ephesus Museum.

I am blown away at the details of the friezes, the mouldings and corniches. I am reminded of my visit to Rome many years ago. 

You can see the Gate of Mazeus, a vaulted gateway beside the library. This leads to the Commercial Agora, Gymnasium and the Grand Theater.

This is where the secret tunnel of the library is located, leading to the brothels and baths =)

State-of-the-Art Public Latrines and Baths

Along the Curetes Street you can find the public latrines, in other words, public toilets. These were part of the Scholastica Baths.

Did you know that the use of public toilets before were only for the royalty and nobility? Amazing when nowadays we all fear a public toilet. My latest horrible public toilet experience was in Cuba last year, read here: On the road to Cayo Coco: Cow Traffic and the Toilet from Hell. Nevertheless, you can just imagine where the rest of the masses during the time, squirt, lay, and bury theirs. I do not mean to be so literal but that is how real it goes =)

Now these toilets were the state-of-the-art toilets during their time, complete with fresh running water everywhere to help keep the hygiene in place. There is a pool in the middle with cascading waters that creates the needed relaxing ambiance and noise distraction so that the person sitting beside you cannot hear your poo splashing magically down below. Now the drainage system below the toilets has running water as well that helps keep the excrement flowing where it needs to go. As for cleaning themselves? They use a sponge on a stick where they wash and rinse with the flowing water just in front of the latrines.

Nec also told us that there were little boys who work here as servants. The wealthy ones sends their slaves ahead of time to warm up their seats while others make use of the servant boys to do this. I wonder how they warm up the seat? By sitting there themselves first?

The public toilets in Ephesus. Just imagine...

Now you see how close those communal toilet holes are to each other, and I can only surmise that privacy and exposure of genitals were not much of a problem back then.

Berry and moi just outside the latrine. She does look a lot like Halle Berry right? And yes, Dutch people are tall. When I stand next to the Dutchman I just manage to reach up to his shoulders.

Public Baths are also a major part of the culture during the ancient times, and this really has something to do with the primitive infrastructure, the scarcity of water and bath facilities at home, therefore public baths were built. They were also used as a social place where people meet and talk.

I used to think that the Romans invented baths, but no, not really. When I visited Mexico, I learned about Mayan Civilization and visited Tulum and Chitzen Itza, the latter is one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World. Read here: Tulum Ruins and Chitzen Itza (not chicken pizza okay!). They also have their own public bath culture. It is however safe to say that the Romans popularised this bathing activity, which the Turks inherited over and called it Hammam. Nowadays, we call it Spa  =)

The Great Theater

The Great Theater is located on the Panayir Hill and can seat 25,000 spectators. The seats of the lower part are made of marble reserved for VIP’s and there is an Emperor box there as well.

The theatre is used for concerts, plays, religious ceremonies, political and philosophical gatherings, sports activities such as gladiator and animal fights. Nowadays, the Grand Theater is still being used for special occasions such as concerts and religious ceremonies when pilgrims visit the ruins and organise a finale service.

Sting and Elton John for example held a benefit concert here. I don’t think I would mind watching Sting sing and hum in this ancient theater!

This is an Ionic order column, and those egg-like stuff nestled between are giving me a strange fuzzy feeling. Am I the only one?

The Arcadian Street built with colonnades and marble slabs on the floors. This was the street from the Port where traders and seafaring men arrive and walk to enter Ephesus. A very important street and 1 of the 3 only lighted streets back then, namely Rome, Antioch and Ephesus.

The Harbour Road in front of the Grand Theater.

The road on the right where you can see people under the trees is going to the exit. This is where we end the Ephesus Tour, but I have a few more pictures below.

So that is it folks! The end of the Ephesus Archaeological Ruins tour.

Thank you very much my dear Ephesus for letting me have a peek into your past old world glory. Tesekkur ederim! Shukran! Efcharisto! And goodbye!

Now this was waiting for us outside the ruins. 

The owner of the camel is being a bit cheeky here. I mean if you pose with the camel and take pictures, I can understand that you must pay. Nevertheless, I took this inside the comforts of our waiting bus. I just zoomed in the lens of my point and click camera, and voila! Am I naughty now for not paying? You tell me!

Go here for - Ephesus Part 1

Travel Period: June 2013
Destination: Ephesus, Selcuk (Izmir), Turkey

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Happy Travels! Enjoy Life =)