Turkish Meze: Midye Dolma (Rice-Stuffed Mussels) & Midye Tava (Fried Mussels w/ Tarator Sauce)

On my first night in Istanbul I right away hit the street food scene. I will post a separate entry soon about all the Turkish street foods I saw and discovered in Istanbul. I have a few favourites of course and they are all aplenty in the city and very appetising!


My very light evening snack at Golden Kokorec on Sahne Sokak (or Sahne Sk).

I had a very early dinner on my first day in Istanbul with a New Zealand couple I met whilst waiting for the gates to open on Istiklal Avenue and Taksim Square. Long story short, I arrived in Istanbul in the afternoon of Labour Day when Beyoglu’s centre was closed off by police due to a demonstration against the present government. It’s a story that I best tell on another blog post, but nevertheless, as a result of the early bite I had together with the couple, I was not too hungry to eat a proper dinner that night. A snack however is more appealing. So glad that the street food scene in Istanbul, especially in Beyoglu in the evening is very much alive.

One of the street foods I quickly noticed in Beyoglu area are the rice-stuffed mussels (Midye Dolma). You basically eat them on the street whilst standing. Because I didn’t want to do this I searched for a place to eat them seated. At Sahne Sokak, this is the small street beside the Cicek Passage on Balık Pazarı (Galatasaray Fish Market), there are vendors selling the mussels, street food style with the convenience of being seated. This is definitely much better than standing on the street because Sahne Sokak is a crowded alley where you get to do some people watching as well.

I sat down at Golden Kokorec, one of the stalls offering a quick bite, either dine-in or standing. Kokorec actually means offal and they offer this as a specialty here which is similar to a doner on a bread but I am not getting any of this as I am here for the mussels.

I ordered a small plate of 5 Midye Dolmasi, and out of curiosity, I also tried their other mussel variety—the fried mussels on a stick with tarator sauce made from walnuts and garlic. This is the Midye Tava. In some other Middle Eastern countries, the tarator sauce is made up of tahini, that is not the case though here in Turkey.

These mussels are also popular Turkish starters or Meze and can be ordered at many local restaurants in the city and all over the country.

The verdict: The Midye Tava was quite okay but it’s not my favourite. The Midye Dolmasi though were quite good, especially when you squeeze in some lemon juice on top of it. The lemon juice just lifts up the mussels and rice. As a seafood lover, I got the most enjoyment from this rice-stuffed mussels. Do try these when you are in Istanbul!


Preparing the Midye Dolma (Rice-Stuffed Mussels).


This has got to be one of my favourite street foods and starters (meze) in Istanbul.


My other order: Deep frying the mussels on a stick.


Midye Tava (Fried Mussels with Tarator Sauce). The sauce is made from walnuts and garlic. This was okay but not a favourite. I have to admit that I have a love and hate relationship with deep fried stuff.


Lemons are a staple in my kitchen. They really lift up any dish!


I ate at the Golden Kokorec because I had a little convo going with one of the workers there whilst checking out the mussels and promised to him I will come back to eat. Well, I did.

Travel Period: May 2015
Destination: Beyoglu, Istanbul (Marmara), Turkey

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