Belgrade, Serbia: Visiting the “Pijaca Kalenic” Farmer’s Market

I had a great farmer’s market experience in Novi Sad where I bought some paprika powder and chili flakes. I still have them in my kitchen and I predict I won’t be able to finish them by the end of this year, so this was indeed a great buy =)

So armed with this experience, I was looking forward to checking out one of its farmer’s market version in Belgrade—the Pijaca Kalenic in the Vracar neighbourhood.

My plan was to visit a couple of important attractions in Vracar. First on the list was the Saint Sava Church, afterwhich I will be heading off to the Nikola Tesla Museum, then I just follow Krunska street and I should arrive at Pijaca Kalenic.

The visit to the Saint Sava Church was a success and I even managed to have coffee outside beside the park. The Nikola Tesla Museum though was closed. I didn’t realised it was because the door was open. I went in and noticed that it was relatively quiet and dark. A man walked up to me and informed me that the museum is closed for the day but I can always come back tomorrow. So I walked back out and decided to proceed to Pijaca Kalenic.

This is my walking route from my hotel (Zepter Hotel) on Terazije:

The market is in the middle of a triangular square bordered with the streets Kursilina (this meets Krunska), Maksima Gorgog and Njegoseva.

I found the market a little bit rundown compared to Novi Sad. I also noticed that a large part of the market sells non-food items, such as used stuff, antiques, household items, lots of junk and what nots. It has a gypsy air around it.

Sadly, I didn’t get to buy anything here though. I also had the feeling that I didn’t want to stay longer. There were less market stalls and it was not busy at all. Maybe I came on a wrong day? I was here on a Monday just before 12 noon.

The open-air farmer’s market is open throughout the day everyday, from 07:00 to 19:00. However, I have read somewhere that the market is open earlier at 06:00 and closes later at 20:00 as well. I think the best time to come is between 09:00 and 15:00 when you are able to still see fresh fish, meat and produce. Monday was perhaps not the best day. I am sure the rest of the days during the week especially in the weekends are the best days to visit and shop here.

This is the non-food area of the market:

The Serbian flag.

Antiques and lots of junk for sale.

This is the food and produce market area:

Cheap vegetables here at the farmer's market.

Locally cured meat.

Open-air market stalls.

I have always wondered what these leaves were and what do you use them for.

An old lady vendor dressed in traditional clothing.

Pickled vegetables. Pickling is huge in Serbia! I love sarma (pickled cabbage).

Seafood vendor at Pijaca Kalenic.

Travel Period: March 2016
Destination: Vracar, Belgrade, Serbia

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